Mt.Baruntse lies in the Khumbu region of eastern Nepal, crowned by four peaks and bounded on the south by the Hunku Glacier, on the east by the Barun Glacier, and on the northwest by the Imja Glacier. The mountain was first climbed in 1954 via the south ridge by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow of a New Zealand expedition team led by Late Sir Edmund Hillary.This Mountain is usually climbed from the South side, where climbers can ascend Mera Peak to acclimatize before moving up the valley to Baruntse base camp.
Our Baruntse expedition is an exciting adventure for climbers wishing to summit a 7000M peak of Nepal. It offers a tremendously rewarding climb among the world’s highest peaks. Baruntse Peak at 7162 m is located just south of the semi-circle of mesmerizing mountains comprising Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse and Makalu on the other side. The expedition to Baruntse peak approaches base camp through the pristine wilderness environment of the Hinku valley and the renowned Mera La. of Makalu Barun remote valleys of Nepal. Although exciting and challenging, this climbing expedition is considered to be one of the easier climbs of a 7000+ metre peak and thus it boasts of a high success rate of scaling the summit and returning safely. From base camp to the western col with its huge glacial plateau, everything will make your ascent challenging and inspiring.
Although its altitude is less than other neighboring mountains, you will be in the very heart of the mighty Himalayan peaks – in front of you the famous Lhotse south face and not far away the stunning Makalu west pillar. Taking part in the Baruntse expedition involves using many of the varied skills needed for climbing any 8000 metre peak and so offers the ideal training peak climb before embarking on any of the 8000 metre peak expeditions in the Himalayas. The steep sections of ice at 50 degrees and a prominent ice cliff at about 7000 metres, make the South-East Ridge of Baruntse demand respect and great effort to succeed in the final push to the summit.
This Baruntse expedition itinerary has been designed carefully so all expedition members have proper acclimatization and have sufficient stamina and skill to cope with the necessary climbs from and back to base camp before setting out for our Baruntse summit push.
After landing at the Tribhuvan International Airport, Adventure Ascent representative will be there to greet you and take you to the hotel. We will then check-in at the hotel, freshen up and take a rest. Welcome dinner will be hosted in the evening.
Today after breakfast we start a guided tour to some of the most historical and spiritual attractions in Kathmandu. Some of these landmarks are considered World Heritage Sites such as the sacred Hindu temple of Pashupati Nath and the Buddhists’ shrine (Bouddha Nath) which is one of the largest stupas in the world. In the afternoon we will meet with our guides and fellow trekkers/climbers. We discuss what we are to expect on our journey and get all our climbing equipment checked by the expert guides. Overnight in Kathmandu.
Today we begin our journey by taking flight to Lukla early in the morning and get an amazing flying experience. After breakfast we begin our trek to Paiya. The trail passes through a jungle down to Shurke village. We move further ahead and stop at Pakhapani for lunch. We continue our trek after lunch and pass through several villages, jungles and hills before reaching Paiya. From here we can see a number of peaks including Knogde Ri, Khatang, Tang Ragi Tu and others.
We start trekking after breakfast. We soon reach a wooden bridge which might be a little slippery. We tread through the bridge carefully to cross the Kari La pass. We continue our trek and stop only for lunch at a village. Next, continue our trek through rhododendron and bamboo forests in a narrow mountain trail. On our trek today we also get great views of the Dudhkoshi River valley and Dudh Kund Himal, before reaching the farming and trading village of Pangkongama for a good night’s rest.
We descend on a rock-strewn path leading to a rhododendron forest. We come across a lot of Mani walls throughout the trail. We also pass through beautiful hills, ridges, and teahouses before stopping for lunch. Here, we can admire the mesmerizing views of the south face of Mera Peak and Naulekh Peak. The trail zigzags through forested areas and then descends steeply. We walk past pine and rhododendron forests to reach Nigmsa (Shibuche). Overnight in Nigmsa (Shibuche).
After breakfast, we begin our trek through a narrow and steep mountain trail. We also pass through lush forests before reaching a stream. We walk straight ahead, through a rhododendron forest. Then we descend through a bamboo forest before passing a cave by the side of Chetrakhola. Overnight camping at Chhetra Khola.
We begin our trek after breakfast and reach a fine vantage point. From here we admire the beautiful surrounding with views of Mera Peak and Hinku Valley. Next, we trek through bamboo and pine forests in a narrow trail with Mera Peak looming nearby. On our way we are likely to come across wild animals including sloths, jungle cats and others. We continue our trek on a ridge then ascend all the way to Kothe. Overnight in Kothe.
We begin our trek on a trail alongside the Hinku Khola. We trek for some time before stopping for lunch at Gondishung which is the summer herders’ settlement in the west bank of the Hinku Drangka. We also pass a 200-year-old Lungsumgba Gomba where we can see writings on a rock on the way to Mera Peak. A short walk from the Gompa will take us to Thagnag which is a summer grazing area. Overnight camping in Thagnag.
We can either rest for the whole day or take part in a short distance hike to Charpate Himal Glacier. After breakfast we hike for around 3 hours to the glacier. The Charpate Himal Glacier is regarded as holy by the Sherpas of Nepal. From here we can admire excellent views of the north face of Mera Peak. It only takes us about an hour to descend to our camp in Thangnang. Overnight at Thangnang.
Today, we head towards Mera Base Camp at Khare. We follow the lateral moraine of Dig Glacier to Dig Kharka, which offers spectacular views of Charpate Himal. The trail climbs through moraines and to the snout of the Hinku Nup and Shar Glaciers and then climbs more steeply to our camping spot at Khare. The up-close views of the north face of Merak Peak from Khare is astonishing. Overnight in Khare.
Today we rest and prepare for the next day’s climb. After breakfast we get ready with all our climbing gear and practice ice climbing just above Khare. We move further ahead and enjoy good views of Mera La which is en route to the peak. After practicing ice climbing for a couple of hours, we walk down to our camp and rest for the rest of the day. Overnight in Khare.
We walk through a rock-strewn area for about two hours. The trail that leads up to Mera High Camp can be hazardous if it has recently snowed as there are a number of crevasses here. We walk up to the top of the rock band which is marked by a large cairn. We set up our high camp at a location which grants great views of the sunrise and sunset along with the Himalayan vista. Overnight at Mera High Camp.
We wake up around 2 in the morning for breakfast. It’s going to be very cold in the beginning but soon we warm up as we continue up the glacier and onto a peculiar ridge. The first rays of the sun hit the big peaks in an amazing red glow. The route is still non-technical as we slowly climb higher into the ever-thinning air. The slope steepens for a section behind the ridge and the summit comes back into view. At the foot of the final steep summit cone, we may attach to a fixed rope depending on the conditions. The summit is only a few meters away. From the summit, we take in amazing views of the mighty Himalayas including Mt. Everest (8,848m), Cho-Oyu (8,210m), Lhotse (8,516m), Makalu (8,463m), Kangchenjunga (8,586m), Nuptse (7,855m), Chamlang (7,319m), Baruntse (7 ,129m) and others. Later, we trek to Kongma Dingma to spend the night.
There is no guarantee that we will have favorable weather on our planned day for the summit. Therefore, this day is set aside as a contingency in case we are unable to summit the Mera as planned due to bad weather or any other unanticipated reason. However, if the trip goes smoothly, we do not need this spare day. Instead, we can use this day to walk back to Seto Pokhari.
As we are ascending steadily near Seto Pokhari or White Lake, we see the first lake among a series of lakes that occupy the upper Hongu Basin. On today’s trek we experience the beautiful mountain wilderness of the Hongu Valley. On our right is Chamlang (7321m) with hanging glaciers on its South-West and North-West faces.
We begin our trek after breakfast. Our trail crosses a wide and grassy valley scattered with small boulders. The valley gets increasingly barren as we climb higher. We pass Peak 41 and Hunku Peak and proceed to the base camp of Mt Baruntse. Overnight camping at Baruntse Base camp.
An Advanced Base Camp will be set up at an altitude of 6,000m near a glacier at the foot of the South East Ridge. We need to allow enough time for additional acclimatization and for load carrying to stock Baruntse Advance Base Camp (BABC) and Camp 1. Camp 1 is at a height of 6,450m on the South-East Ridge proper. Above Camp 1, we climb snow slopes of 45°and the route becomes more demanding. Fixed line would be placed on the ascent to Camp 1, below the West / East Col. The route above C2 requires some fixing which would be done by our Sherpa guides. From Camp 2, we climb to the summit. We also descend on the same route and spend overnight at Camp 1 and Baruntse Advanced Base Camp. Overnight in camp.
We take the much needed day off today. We can spend the whole day resting, cleaning and drying all our climbing equipment. Moreover, it is important for us to understand that Himalayan Glacier practices a 0 carbon footprint policy in order to preserve the Himalayan eco-system. Therefore, we collect all our garbage and hand it over to the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee at Namche. Overnight camping at Baruntse Base Camp.
We hike along the rugged moraine towards Imja Valley. Along the way, we get panoramic views of the high Himalayan peaks including Lhotse and Everest toward on the north-west. After reaching Amphu Labcha base camp we set up our tents. Overnight camping at to Amphu Labcha Base Camp.
We get up very early morning for the climb. The climb involves steep sections on rock and ice. We cross the Amphu Labcha pass (5845 m) which is one of the highest passes in Nepal. It’s better to tackle the pass early in the morning when the snow is stable. We use climbing ropes wherever necessary. The last sections of the climb to Amphu Labcha winds up in snow shelves. On the other side, a steep descent awaits us on fixed lines leading down to the moraine. Overnight camping at Amphu Labcha Base Camp (North).
We walk downhill along the moraine to arrive at Chukung which is the starting point for the journey to Island Peak. The wilderness of the remote Hinku Valley gives in to the civilization of Khumbu Region. The Imja Khola joins the Dudh Koshi River a little above the Pangoche village. There is a famous gompa at Pangboche believed to have been the oldest in the Khumbu region. Overnight in Pangboche.
We begin today’s trek with a descent. Our trail leaves the alpine desert and enters the pine forests. The path leads to a steep uphill climb into Tengboche. We visit the Tengboche Monastery which is a popular monastery of the Khumbu region. A steep descent will lead us back to the Dudh Kosi River. Our final journey today is a steep climb on a hill and into Namche Bazaar. Overnight in Namche Bazaar.
A long steady downhill path from Namche leads us to an impressive bridge called the Hillary Suspension Bridge high above the river. The trail afterwards is mostly an easy walk except for a few short uphill climbs. We cross the Bhote- Koshi River three times. The lower valley looks significantly greener after a month long journey. Overnight in Lukla.
Our flight time to Kathmandu is usually scheduled in the morning because of windy weather in route during the afternoon. An Adventure Ascent’s representative will pick us up from the airport and drop us off at our hotel. We can spend the rest of the afternoon at our leisure. In the evening, we enjoy a farewell dinner hosted by Adventure Ascent to celebrate our successful trip to the mountains. Overnight in Kathmandu.
This day is also set aside as a contingency should any flight delays occur. We get to spend the whole day relaxing and souvenir Shopping. If things go as planned, we can fly home today instead of the next day. Overnight in Kathmandu.
Our Baruntse Expedition with Mera Peak Climbing trip comes to an end today. An Adventure Ascent’s representative will drop us off at the airport around 2-3 hours before the scheduled flight.